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How to grow lime (key lime)

Family Rutaceae. Hardy to USDA hardiness zone 9b+ (U.S. Department of Agriculture). Full sun. Ready in 2-3 years to bearing (perennial tree).

Lime (Key Lime) growing. Photo for the lime (key lime) growing guide
Lime (Key Lime) · Rutaceae

Sun

Full sun

Spacing

8-12 ft (or a large container)

Days to harvest

2-3 years to bearing (perennial tree)

Hardiness

Zone 9b+

What growers actually recorded

Loading zone 7b results…

When to plant lime (key lime)

  • Transplant out: ~2 weeks after last frost.

Companion plants for lime (key lime)

Plant with: Marigold, Basil.

Common pests & problems

Citrus leafminer, scale, citrus greening where present.

Read the organic pest control guide →

Grower's tip

More cold-sensitive than lemon or orange; container culture with winter protection is the only realistic option outside zone 10.

When to plant lime (key lime) in your zone

Free month-by-month sowing and transplanting lists, built from frost dates for your USDA (United States Department of Agriculture) hardiness zone.

Browse every zone and month →

Soil & water for lime (key lime)

Soil & pH

6.0-7.0: near neutral

Loose, well-drained loam with 3-5% organic matter.

Compost 2 in worked into the top 6 in of soil each spring.

Watering

1 in / week

Deep drip at the base twice a week beats a daily shallow sprinkle.

Consistent moisture prevents most crop problems.

Knowing when to harvest

  • Most limes are picked green and firm; full ripeness (yellowing) exists but reduces the characteristic tartness prized in cooking.
  • Fruit should feel heavy for its size, a sign of juice content.
  • Clip rather than pull; thin-skinned limes tear easily at the stem.

Storing & keeping

Counter for about a week, fridge crisper for 2-4 weeks. Juice and zest both freeze well for months.

What to expect

Per plant: 50-100+ limes from a mature tree, bearing by year 2-3, sooner for grafted trees

Lime is among the least cold-tolerant citrus, damaged near 30-32°F; strictly a zone 10-11 outdoor tree or a container-and-shelter crop elsewhere.

Troubleshooting lime (key lime)

Tree defoliates or dies back after a mild cold snap

Likely cause: Lime has the lowest cold tolerance of the common citrus

What to do: Grow in a container that can be moved indoors well before frost in any marginal climate.

Thorny, vigorous growth from the base overtaking the graft

Likely cause: Rootstock suckering below the graft union

What to do: Remove rootstock suckers as soon as they appear, cutting flush at the base.

Varieties worth growing

Bearss (Persian)

Seedless, the common grocery-store lime, relatively more cold-tolerant than Key lime.

Key lime (Mexican)

Smaller, more aromatic and tart, but noticeably more cold- and wind-sensitive.

Growing lime (key lime) in containers

Viable and common in a 10-15 gallon pot; the practical way to grow lime nearly everywhere outside zones 10-11, with reliable winter shelter.

Nutrition

A meaningful source of vitamins, minerals, and fiber when eaten fresh.

Common questions

Why did my lime tree die after a light frost that my orange survived?

Lime has the least cold tolerance among common citrus and is damaged at temperatures oranges and even lemons can shrug off.

Does lime need a pollinizer?

No, lime is self-fertile.

Where these numbers come from

  • USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map (2023 revision). Zone assignment and the 30-year normals behind every cold-hardiness figure.
  • NOAA NCEI 1991-2020 Climate Normals. Frost dates, growing-season length, and the probability bands on both.
  • Cornell, UMN, and UC Davis Cooperative Extension crop guides. Spacing, days to maturity, soil pH targets, and per-plant yield ranges.
  • USDA FSIS / FDA Produce Safety guidance. Wash, cure, and cold-storage handling numbers.

Ranges are regional guidance, not a promise for your yard. Your own logged results always override the published range.