How to grow olive
Family Oleaceae. Hardy to USDA hardiness zone 8a+ (U.S. Department of Agriculture). Full sun. Ready in 3-5 years to bearing (perennial tree).
Sun
Full sun
Spacing
15-25 ft
Days to harvest
3-5 years to bearing (perennial tree)
Hardiness
Zone 8a+
What growers actually recorded
Loading zone 7b results…
When to plant olive
- Transplant out: ~2 weeks after last frost.
Companion plants for olive
Plant with: No specific companions recorded for this crop. Group it by water and sun needs instead.
Common pests & problems
Olive fruit fly, scale; needs a chill period but no hard freezes.
Grower's tip
Fruit is inedible straight off the tree; it must be cured in brine or lye before it loses its intense bitterness.
When to plant olive in your zone
Free month-by-month sowing and transplanting lists, built from frost dates for your USDA (United States Department of Agriculture) hardiness zone.
Soil & water for olive
Soil & pH
6.0-7.0: near neutral
Loose, well-drained loam with 3-5% organic matter.
Compost 2 in worked into the top 6 in of soil each spring.
Watering
1 in / week
Deep drip at the base twice a week beats a daily shallow sprinkle.
Consistent moisture prevents most crop problems.
Knowing when to harvest
- For green-cured olives, pick while firm and green to straw-colored; for black-ripe, wait until fully purple-black and slightly soft.
- Fruit is intensely bitter (oleuropein) straight off the tree regardless of color and must be cured or pressed before eating.
- For oil production, harvest at a partial color-turn stage, balancing yield and oil quality.
Storing & keeping
Fresh olives must be cured (brine, lye, water, or salt-dry curing) before eating; they are not edible untreated. Cured olives keep for months in brine in the fridge. Oil-pressed olives should be processed within a day or two of harvest for best oil quality.
What to expect
Per plant: 15-40 lb from a mature tree, bearing by year 3-5, full production by year 8-10
Troubleshooting olive
Bitter, unpalatable fruit even when fully ripe
Likely cause: All raw olives contain oleuropein and are inedible untreated regardless of ripeness
What to do: Cure using a brine, lye, or water-based method before eating; there is no ripeness stage that makes raw olive palatable.
Tree fails to fruit in a cold-winter region
Likely cause: Olive needs some winter chill to flower but is damaged by hard freezes below about 15-20°F
What to do: Grow only in Mediterranean-type or mild climates, or in a container that can be sheltered from hard freezes.
Varieties worth growing
Arbequina
Self-fertile, compact, cold-hardier than many types, popular for both oil and home groves.
Mission
Dual-purpose for curing and oil, widely adapted in Mediterranean climates.
Growing olive in containers
Viable in a 15-25 gallon pot; a common way to grow olive outside true Mediterranean climates since it can be moved to shelter for winter.
Nutrition
A meaningful source of vitamins, minerals, and fiber when eaten fresh.
Common questions
Can I eat an olive straight off the tree?
No, raw olives are extremely bitter due to oleuropein; they must be cured in brine, lye, or salt before they are palatable.
Does olive need a second tree?
Most modern cultivars like Arbequina are self-fertile, though a second variety can improve yield.
Where these numbers come from
- USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map (2023 revision). Zone assignment and the 30-year normals behind every cold-hardiness figure.
- NOAA NCEI 1991-2020 Climate Normals. Frost dates, growing-season length, and the probability bands on both.
- Cornell, UMN, and UC Davis Cooperative Extension crop guides. Spacing, days to maturity, soil pH targets, and per-plant yield ranges.
- USDA FSIS / FDA Produce Safety guidance. Wash, cure, and cold-storage handling numbers.
Ranges are regional guidance, not a promise for your yard. Your own logged results always override the published range.