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Crop guide · vegetable

How to grow tomato

Family Solanaceae. Hardy to USDA hardiness zone 3a+ (U.S. Department of Agriculture). Full sun, 8+ hrs. Ready in 60-85 days.

Tomato growing. Photo for the tomato growing guide
Tomato · Solanaceae

Sun

Full sun, 8+ hrs

Spacing

24-36 in

Days to harvest

60-85 days

Hardiness

Zone 3a+

What growers actually recorded

Loading zone 7b results…

When to plant tomato

  • Start indoors: ~6 weeks before last frost.
  • Transplant out: ~2 weeks after last frost.

Companion plants for tomato

Plant with: Basil, Marigold, Carrot, Onion.

Avoid near: Brassicas, Fennel, Corn.

Common pests & problems

Hornworm, aphids, blight. Rotate 3-year cycle to break disease.

Read the organic pest control guide →

Feeding & fertilizer

N-P-K ratio: Low N (5-10-10) once fruiting starts

Organic options: Compost 2-3 in. at planting · Fish emulsion every 2 wks while young · Bone meal + kelp at flowering for calcium/potassium

When to feed: Compost at planting → light nitrogen through vegetative → switch to P/K when flowers appear.

Watch for: All leaves, no fruit = too much N. Blossom-end rot = uneven watering, rarely a soil calcium shortage; test soil before adding calcium.

N = nitrogen (leaves), P = phosphorus (roots and flowers), K = potassium (fruit and disease resistance). How to read a fertilizer label →

Grower's tip

Bury 2/3 of the transplant stem. Roots form along the buried stem for a stronger plant.

When to plant tomato in your zone

Free month-by-month sowing and transplanting lists, built from frost dates for your USDA (United States Department of Agriculture) hardiness zone.

Browse every zone and month →

Soil & water for tomato

Soil & pH

6.2-6.8: slightly acidic

Loose, deep loam. Break up compaction 12 in down; tomatoes and peppers root deeply when given the room.

Work 2-3 in of compost + a handful of bone meal per plant into the hole. Warm soil to 60°F+ before transplanting; black plastic mulch 2 weeks ahead helps in the North.

Watering

1-1.5 in / week, more in fruit set

Deep soak at the base twice a week. Drip or soaker hose beats overhead watering: wet leaves invite early blight.

Stick your finger 4 inches in near the stem. If it's dry at the second knuckle, water. If it's still damp, wait. Flipping from bone-dry to soaked is what cracks fruit and brings on blossom-end rot.

Knowing when to harvest

  • Full color (variety-specific) with a slight give at the shoulder.
  • Twist-and-lift; ripe fruit separates cleanly at the stem.
  • In frost country: pick all mature-green fruit before first frost and ripen indoors at 55-70°F.

Storing & keeping

Never refrigerate. Cold destroys flavor compounds. Counter-store stem-up at 55-70°F for 5-7 days. Freeze whole or can (pressure or water-bath with added lemon juice, pH < 4.6).

What to expect

Per plant: 10-30 lb indeterminate; 5-15 lb determinate

Per sq ft: ~2 lb / sq ft trellised

For most home gardeners, 10-15 lb per plant is a solid win; 20+ lb is master-level territory. JM Fortier's benchmark for intensive market growers is 3-4 kg/m².

Troubleshooting tomato

Blossom-end rot (black, sunken bottom)

Likely cause: Calcium can't reach the fruit. Almost always from uneven watering, not calcium deficit

What to do: Mulch 3 in deep, water 1.5 in weekly on a fixed schedule. Calcium spray is a last resort.

Cracked or split fruit

Likely cause: Heavy water after a dry spell

What to do: Even soil moisture; mulch. Pick fruit at first blush during rainy stretches.

Curled leaves + purple veining

Likely cause: Cool nights (< 55°F) or phosphorus lockout in cold soil

What to do: Wait for warmer weather; foliar kelp helps.

Yellow lower leaves with dark rings

Likely cause: Early blight (Alternaria)

What to do: Remove infected leaves, mulch to stop soil splash, spray Serenade or copper weekly.

Varieties worth the space

Not every name in a seed catalog. These are the ones growers order again, with what each one is actually good at and what it asks of you.

Sungold

Hybrid · 57 days

The cherry that converts people. Sweet enough that half the crop never reaches the kitchen; crack-prone if watering swings.

cherryearlycontainer ok

Cherokee Purple

Heirloom · 80 days

Deep smoky slicer with the best flavor in most side-by-side tastings. Soft shoulders, poor shipper, grow it because you eat it.

slicerflavor

San Marzano

Heirloom · 80 days

Dense paste tomato that cooks down fast with little water to boil off. Wants steady calcium or you get blossom-end rot.

pastecanning

Early Girl

Hybrid · 57 days

First real slicer of the season in a short summer, and it sets fruit through cool nights.

earlyshort season

Big Beef

Hybrid · 73 days

Beefsteak size with disease resistance heirlooms don't have. The safe bet in a humid, wet-summer garden.

slicerdisease resistant

Roma VF

Open-pollinated · 75 days

Determinate paste that ripens in a wave, right when you want one big canning day, not a trickle.

pastedeterminate

Black Krim

Heirloom · 80 days

Dark, salty-sweet, and productive in heat when other heirlooms sulk.

slicerheat

Sun Sugar

Hybrid · 62 days

Orange cherry with thinner skin and less cracking than most sweets. Vigorous, give it a tall trellis.

cherry

Amish Paste

Heirloom · 85 days

Bigger, meatier paste than Roma with real tomato flavor in the sauce. Indeterminate, so it needs staking.

pastesauce

Juliet

Hybrid · 60 days

Grape-shaped, crack-resistant, and nearly unkillable. The one that keeps producing after August blight starts.

snackingproductive

Sungold (indeterminate cherry)

The sweetest small tomato most gardeners will ever grow. Vigorous and crack-resistant.

Cherokee Purple (heirloom slicer)

Complex flavor and reliable in humid climates when staked.

Roma / San Marzano (paste)

Meaty, low-seed; the choice for sauce and canning.

Defiant PhR (hybrid slicer)

Bred for late-blight resistance; a rescue variety for wet climates.

Track which of these you already own in your Seed Stash →

Growing tomato in containers

5-gallon minimum for determinates; 10-gallon (grow-bag or half-barrel) for indeterminates. Stake or cage at planting: root disturbance later cuts yield.

Nutrition

High in lycopene (tomato), capsaicin (hot pepper), vitamin C, and potassium.

Common questions

Do I really need to prune suckers?

On indeterminates trained to a single stem, yes. You'll get earlier, cleaner fruit. On determinate bush types, no; you'll cut into yield.

Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

Above 85°F, tomatoes stop producing lycopene. Provide 30% shade cloth and pick at first blush to ripen indoors.

Can I plant tomatoes in the same spot each year?

Not if you can help it. Rotate on a 3-year cycle to break early blight, Fusarium, and Verticillium wilt cycles.

Where these numbers come from

  • USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map (2023 revision). Zone assignment and the 30-year normals behind every cold-hardiness figure.
  • NOAA NCEI 1991-2020 Climate Normals. Frost dates, growing-season length, and the probability bands on both.
  • Cornell, UMN, and UC Davis Cooperative Extension crop guides. Spacing, days to maturity, soil pH targets, and per-plant yield ranges.
  • USDA FSIS / FDA Produce Safety guidance. Wash, cure, and cold-storage handling numbers.

Ranges are regional guidance, not a promise for your yard. Your own logged results always override the published range.