Zone 9b planting calendar

What to plant in January: zone 9b

Zone 9b averages its last spring frost around February 15 and its first fall frost around December 15. Everything below is timed from those two dates, so it stays useful whether you're planting for summer or for a fall harvest.

These are zone-average dates. Check an area-level frost estimate from thirty years of nearby weather history and this calendar retimes itself.
Last frost: February 15
First frost: December 15
Winter lows: 25 to 30 °F
Zone 9b Almanac. What growers here actually recorded: sowing weeks, days to first pick, and yields.

Dormant care

  • Chit potatoes in a bright, cool spot for 2 weeks. Sprouted pieces jump ahead once planted.

Start indoors

  • Tomatoaround Jan 4

    6 weeks of indoor growth before your last frost (02-15). Bury 2/3 of the transplant stem. Roots form along the buried stem for a stronger plant.

  • Kalearound Jan 4

    6 weeks of indoor growth before your last frost (02-15). Fall crop sweetens after first frost. Plan a July sowing for the best flavor.

  • Broccoliaround Jan 4

    6 weeks of indoor growth before your last frost (02-15). After cutting the main head, side shoots keep coming for weeks: don't pull the plant.

  • Basilaround Jan 4

    6 weeks of indoor growth before your last frost (02-15). Pinch flower spikes the moment you see them: leaves stay sweet all season.

  • Cabbagearound Jan 4

    6 weeks of indoor growth before your last frost (02-15). Firm heads need steady water and steady nitrogen. Once a head feels solid, cut it: leaving it in summer heat splits it open overnight.

  • Caulifloweraround Jan 4

    6 weeks of indoor growth before your last frost (02-15). Cauliflower is the fussiest brassica: any check in water or nitrogen makes it button into a tiny head. Blanch white types by tying outer leaves over the curd.

  • Brussels Sproutsaround Jan 4

    6 weeks of indoor growth before your last frost (02-15). This is a fall crop: frost is what turns the sprouts sweet. Around 4 weeks before harvest, top the growing tip so the plant pushes size into the sprouts.

  • Kohlrabiaround Jan 4

    6 weeks of indoor growth before your last frost (02-15). Harvest the swollen stem at tennis-ball size, no bigger: past that it turns woody and fibrous fast.

  • Romanescoaround Jan 4

    6 weeks of indoor growth before your last frost (02-15). It's slower and fussier than cauliflower; give it the longest cool-weather window you can, spring or fall, not summer.

  • Cucamelonaround Jan 4

    6 weeks of indoor growth before your last frost (02-15). Grows from a small tuberous root that overwinters indoors in pots north of zone 7; pick fruit at grape size for the best crunch.

  • Tomatilloaround Jan 4

    6 weeks of indoor growth before your last frost (02-15). Plant at least two for pollination: a single tomatillo rarely sets fruit. Husk turns papery and splits when ripe.

  • Ground Cherryaround Jan 4

    6 weeks of indoor growth before your last frost (02-15). Fruit drops when ripe, husk and all: rake or hand-pick off the ground every few days rather than picking from the plant.

  • Radicchioaround Jan 4

    6 weeks of indoor growth before your last frost (02-15). Cool fall weather brings out its best deep red color and mellows bitterness; grow it as a fall crop where possible.

  • Sorrelaround Jan 4

    6 weeks of indoor growth before your last frost (02-15). Snip flower stalks as they appear to keep leaves tender; the lemony tang fades if the plant is allowed to bolt.

  • Malabar Spinacharound Jan 4

    6 weeks of indoor growth before your last frost (02-15). Not a true spinach; it's a vigorous heat-loving vine that replaces greens through the hottest weeks other greens can't survive.

  • Summer Savoryaround Jan 4

    6 weeks of indoor growth before your last frost (02-15). Harvest just before flowering for the best flavor, then shear the whole plant back for a second flush.

  • Chamomile (German)around Jan 4

    6 weeks of indoor growth before your last frost (02-15). Pick flowers at midday once fully open, on a dry day, for the strongest tea; it dries quickly on a screen out of direct sun.

  • Shiso (Perilla)around Jan 4

    6 weeks of indoor growth before your last frost (02-15). Self-sows aggressively once established; pinch spent flower spikes if you don't want volunteers taking over next spring.

  • Anisearound Jan 4

    6 weeks of indoor growth before your last frost (02-15). Needs a long, warm, frost-free season to set seed; stake plants, as the thin stalks flop once seed heads fill out.

  • Epazotearound Jan 4

    6 weeks of indoor growth before your last frost (02-15). Self-sows freely once established; use a light hand in cooking, since the flavor is strong and a little goes a long way.

  • Collardsaround Jan 11

    5 weeks of indoor growth before your last frost (02-15). The most forgiving green in the garden. Harvest bottom leaves upward and it produces for months. Leaves picked after a frost are noticeably sweeter.

  • Napa Cabbagearound Jan 11

    5 weeks of indoor growth before your last frost (02-15). Grow it as a fall crop where possible: napa bolts in spring heat but forms a tight, sweet head in cooling fall days.

  • Lettucearound Jan 18

    4 weeks of indoor growth before your last frost (02-15). Succession sow every 2 weeks. Harvest outer leaves for a cut-and-come-again supply.

  • Swiss Chardaround Jan 18

    4 weeks of indoor growth before your last frost (02-15). Cut outer stalks 2 in above the crown and the plant keeps producing from spring into hard frost. One planting can feed a household all season.

  • Okraaround Jan 18

    4 weeks of indoor growth before your last frost (02-15). Okra wants hot soil, 70F+, or seed rots. Pick pods at 3-4 in every other day: one pod left to toughen tells the plant to stop producing.

  • Bok Choyaround Jan 18

    4 weeks of indoor growth before your last frost (02-15). Bolts fast once days lengthen past 14 hours. Grow it as an early spring or fall crop, not a summer one.

  • Peanutaround Jan 18

    4 weeks of indoor growth before your last frost (02-15). Flowers self-pollinate then push a stalk (peg) into the soil to form the pod underground: keep soil loose around the base.

  • Bitter Melonaround Jan 18

    4 weeks of indoor growth before your last frost (02-15). Pick fruit while still green and firm; left to yellow and split, it turns bitter to the point of inedible.

  • 4 weeks of indoor growth before your last frost (02-15). Pick young for eating like a squash, or leave on the vine until the skin browns and dries for a bath sponge.

  • Endivearound Jan 18

    4 weeks of indoor growth before your last frost (02-15). Blanch heads by tying outer leaves shut 2 weeks before harvest to mellow the natural bitterness.

  • Escarolearound Jan 18

    4 weeks of indoor growth before your last frost (02-15). Broader and milder than curly endive; a light frost sweetens the outer leaves before harvest.

  • New Zealand Spinacharound Jan 18

    4 weeks of indoor growth before your last frost (02-15). Soak seed 24 hours before sowing to soften the hard seed coat; it thrives in summer heat that bolts true spinach.

  • 4 weeks of indoor growth before your last frost (02-15). Bolts fast in heat or from a check in growth; keep it evenly watered and harvest the bulb once it's baseball-sized, before it flowers.

  • Cucumberaround Jan 25

    3 weeks of indoor growth before your last frost (02-15). Trellis vertically to double yield in the same footprint and cut mildew.

  • Zucchiniaround Jan 25

    3 weeks of indoor growth before your last frost (02-15). One plant feeds a family. Pick at 6-8 in for the sweetest fruit.

  • Winter squasharound Jan 25

    3 weeks of indoor growth before your last frost (02-15). Cure 10 days in a warm dry spot after harvest. The skin toughens and storage doubles.

  • Watermelonaround Jan 25

    3 weeks of indoor growth before your last frost (02-15). Ripe = tendril nearest the fruit is brown and the ground spot has turned buttery yellow.

  • Cantaloupe / Melonaround Jan 25

    3 weeks of indoor growth before your last frost (02-15). Ripe fruit slips off the vine with a gentle tug. The smell alone tells you.

  • Pumpkinaround Jan 25

    3 weeks of indoor growth before your last frost (02-15). Count back 100 days from your first frost to time a Halloween harvest. Cure cut pumpkins in the sun for 10 days and leave 3 in of stem so they store for months.

  • Honeydew Melonaround Jan 25

    3 weeks of indoor growth before your last frost (02-15). Unlike cantaloupe, honeydew doesn't slip from the vine when ripe; judge by a faint sweet smell and a slight give at the blossom end.

  • Butternut Squasharound Jan 25

    3 weeks of indoor growth before your last frost (02-15). One of the best keepers: cure in the sun 10 days, then store at 55F and it holds for 3-6 months.

  • Acorn Squasharound Jan 25

    3 weeks of indoor growth before your last frost (02-15). Ripe rind resists a fingernail poke and the ground spot has turned orange; harvest before frost damages the skin.

  • Spaghetti Squasharound Jan 25

    3 weeks of indoor growth before your last frost (02-15). Rind should be uniformly pale yellow, not white or green, before harvest; underripe fruit shreds mushy instead of stringy.

  • Hubbard Squasharound Jan 25

    3 weeks of indoor growth before your last frost (02-15). Needs the most space of any winter squash; give it a full corner of the garden or let it run into the lawn edge.

  • Kabocha Squasharound Jan 25

    3 weeks of indoor growth before your last frost (02-15). Cure 1-2 weeks after harvest; the starchy flesh actually sweetens in storage over the following month.

  • Delicata Squasharound Jan 25

    3 weeks of indoor growth before your last frost (02-15). The skin is thin enough to eat, so skip the long cure other winter squash need; use it within a month or two of harvest.

  • Patty Pan Squasharound Jan 25

    3 weeks of indoor growth before your last frost (02-15). Pick at 2-3 in across, like a baby zucchini: past golf-ball size the skin toughens fast.

Transplant out

  • Raspberryaround Jan 4

    Goes out 6 weeks before last frost. It takes the cold.

  • Blueberryaround Jan 4

    Goes out 6 weeks before last frost. It takes the cold.

  • Blackberryaround Jan 4

    Goes out 6 weeks before last frost. It takes the cold.

  • Grapearound Jan 4

    Goes out 6 weeks before last frost. It takes the cold.

  • Applearound Jan 4

    Goes out 6 weeks before last frost. It takes the cold.

  • Peararound Jan 4

    Goes out 6 weeks before last frost. It takes the cold.

  • Peacharound Jan 4

    Goes out 6 weeks before last frost. It takes the cold.

  • Rhubarbaround Jan 4

    Goes out 6 weeks before last frost. It takes the cold.

  • Plumaround Jan 4

    Goes out 6 weeks before last frost. It takes the cold.

  • Cherryaround Jan 4

    Goes out 6 weeks before last frost. It takes the cold.

  • Asparagusaround Jan 18

    Goes out 4 weeks before last frost. It takes the cold.

  • Horseradisharound Jan 18

    Goes out 4 weeks before last frost. It takes the cold.

  • Kalearound Jan 25

    Goes out 3 weeks before last frost. It takes the cold.

  • Broccoliaround Jan 25

    Goes out 3 weeks before last frost. It takes the cold.

  • Chivesaround Jan 25

    Goes out 3 weeks before last frost. It takes the cold.

  • Strawberryaround Jan 25

    Goes out 3 weeks before last frost. It takes the cold.

  • Kohlrabiaround Jan 25

    Goes out 3 weeks before last frost. It takes the cold.

  • Bok Choyaround Jan 25

    Goes out 3 weeks before last frost. It takes the cold.

  • Goes out 3 weeks before last frost. It takes the cold.

Direct sow

  • Napa Cabbagearound Jan 4

    Soil is ready -6 weeks before last frost.

  • Fava Beanaround Jan 4

    Soil is ready -6 weeks before last frost.

  • Radicchioaround Jan 4

    Soil is ready -6 weeks before last frost.

  • Soil is ready -6 weeks before last frost.

  • Soil is ready -6 weeks before last frost.

  • Peaaround Jan 11

    Soil is ready -5 weeks before last frost.

  • Lettucearound Jan 18

    Soil is ready -4 weeks before last frost.

  • Spinacharound Jan 18

    Soil is ready -4 weeks before last frost.

  • Radisharound Jan 18

    Soil is ready -4 weeks before last frost.

  • Turniparound Jan 18

    Soil is ready -4 weeks before last frost.

  • Arugulaaround Jan 18

    Soil is ready -4 weeks before last frost.

  • Mizunaaround Jan 18

    Soil is ready -4 weeks before last frost.

  • Tatsoiaround Jan 18

    Soil is ready -4 weeks before last frost.

  • Mustard Greensaround Jan 18

    Soil is ready -4 weeks before last frost.

  • Broccoli Raabaround Jan 18

    Soil is ready -4 weeks before last frost.

  • Shallotaround Jan 18

    Soil is ready -4 weeks before last frost.

  • Endivearound Jan 18

    Soil is ready -4 weeks before last frost.

  • Escarolearound Jan 18

    Soil is ready -4 weeks before last frost.

  • Soil is ready -4 weeks before last frost.

  • Carrotaround Jan 25

    Soil is ready -3 weeks before last frost.

  • Kalearound Jan 25

    Soil is ready -3 weeks before last frost.

  • Beetaround Jan 25

    Soil is ready -3 weeks before last frost.

  • Onionaround Jan 25

    Soil is ready -3 weeks before last frost.

  • Broccoliaround Jan 25

    Soil is ready -3 weeks before last frost.

  • Chivesaround Jan 25

    Soil is ready -3 weeks before last frost.

  • Kohlrabiaround Jan 25

    Soil is ready -3 weeks before last frost.

  • Bok Choyaround Jan 25

    Soil is ready -3 weeks before last frost.

  • Soil is ready -3 weeks before last frost.

  • Parsniparound Jan 25

    Soil is ready -3 weeks before last frost.

  • Salsifyaround Jan 25

    Soil is ready -3 weeks before last frost.

  • Lentilaround Jan 25

    Soil is ready -3 weeks before last frost.

  • Sorrelaround Jan 25

    Soil is ready -3 weeks before last frost.

  • Flax (Seed)around Jan 25

    Soil is ready -3 weeks before last frost.

Garden care

  • Wake the bedsaround Jan 11

    Turn in compost, cut down cover crops, and let the soil warm two weeks before the first sowing.

  • Two weeks of increasing outdoor time keeps cold-hardy seedlings from stalling when they go out.

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