Learn/ Charts

Garden charts & quick reference

The tables growers actually keep taped inside the shed door: zones and frost dates, companions, seed-starting math, spacing, pH, compost ratios, and rotation families. Set your zone once and the date charts recalculate.

Your USDA hardiness zone (U.S. Dept. of Agriculture)

Average last frost: 04-25 · first frost: 10-15

Zone 6b: winter lows around -5 to 0 °F.

Zone & frost lesson

USDA hardiness zones & frost dates

Averages. Check a local extension office for microclimate adjustments.

Zone	Winter low	Last frost	First frost	Frost-free days	What that means
1a	-60 to -55 °F	06-20	08-10	51 days	Short season. Start most warm crops indoors, use row cover.
1b	-55 to -50 °F	06-15	08-15	61 days	Short season. Start most warm crops indoors, use row cover.
2a	-50 to -45 °F	06-05	08-20	76 days	Short season. Start most warm crops indoors, use row cover.
2b	-45 to -40 °F	05-31	08-25	86 days	Short season. Start most warm crops indoors, use row cover.
3a	-40 to -35 °F	05-30	09-10	103 days	Short season. Start most warm crops indoors, use row cover.
3b	-35 to -30 °F	05-25	09-15	113 days	Short season. Start most warm crops indoors, use row cover.
4a	-30 to -25 °F	05-20	09-20	123 days	Short season. Start most warm crops indoors, use row cover.
4b	-25 to -20 °F	05-15	09-25	133 days	Short season. Start most warm crops indoors, use row cover.
5a	-20 to -15 °F	05-10	10-01	144 days	Classic four-season garden: one main summer crop, fall greens.
5b	-15 to -10 °F	05-05	10-05	153 days	Classic four-season garden: one main summer crop, fall greens.
6a	-10 to -5 °F	04-30	10-10	163 days	Classic four-season garden: one main summer crop, fall greens.
6b	-5 to 0 °F	04-25	10-15	173 days	Classic four-season garden: one main summer crop, fall greens.
7a	0 to 5 °F	04-15	10-25	193 days	Long season. Spring and fall plantings both fit comfortably.
7b	5 to 10 °F	04-05	11-05	214 days	Long season. Spring and fall plantings both fit comfortably.
8a	10 to 15 °F	03-30	11-15	230 days	Long season. Spring and fall plantings both fit comfortably.
8b	15 to 20 °F	03-20	11-25	250 days	Long season. Spring and fall plantings both fit comfortably.
9a	20 to 25 °F	02-28	12-05	280 days	Near year-round growing; summer heat is the limiting factor.
9b	25 to 30 °F	02-15	12-15	303 days	Near year-round growing; summer heat is the limiting factor.
10a	30 to 35 °F	01-30	12-25	329 days	Frost-free. Grow cool crops in winter, heat-tolerant in summer.
10b	35 to 40 °F	01-15	12-30	349 days	Frost-free. Grow cool crops in winter, heat-tolerant in summer.
11a	40 to 45 °F	01-01	12-31	364 days	Frost-free. Grow cool crops in winter, heat-tolerant in summer.
11b	45 to 50 °F	01-01	12-31	364 days	Frost-free. Grow cool crops in winter, heat-tolerant in summer.

Companion planting chart

Grow-with pairings work by scent masking, pest confusion, predator attraction, or shared resource partitioning. Keep-apart pairings compete or share disease.

Crop	Plant with	Keep apart	Why it works
Tomato	BasilMarigoldCarrotOnion	BrassicasFennelCorn	Basil scent masks tomato from thrips and hornworm; marigold roots suppress root-knot nematodes.
Pepper	BasilOnionCarrot	BeansFennel	Basil and onion odors confuse aphids and flea beetles; carrot occupies a different root layer.
Lettuce	RadishCarrotOnionStrawberry	Broccoli (competes for water)	Radish and carrot break soil crust for shallow lettuce roots; onion masks pest scent.
Carrot	OnionRosemaryLettuceTomato	Dill	Onion and rosemary aromas confuse carrot rust fly; lettuce acts as a quick living mulch.
Bush bean	CornCucumberCarrotSquash	OnionGarlic	Corn provides a climbing scaffold; squash suppresses weeds; beans fix nitrogen for heavy feeders.
Cucumber	BeanCornRadishDill	SageMelons (share pests)	Radish and nasturtium distract cucumber beetles; dill and corn attract parasitic wasps.
Zucchini	NasturtiumCornBean	Potato	Nasturtium traps squash bugs as a sacrificial crop; corn provides partial shade and wind buffer.
Kale	OnionBeetHerbs	TomatoStrawberry	Onion and beet scents mask brassicas from cabbage moths; herbs attract parasitoid wasps.
Spinach	StrawberryRadish	No known conflicts	Strawberry and radish fill gaps without competing for the same root zone.
Beet	OnionLettuceBrassicas	Pole bean	Onion masks leaf miner; lettuce fills empty spaces; brassicas share cool-season timing.
Radish	CarrotLettuceCucumber	Hyssop	Carrot and lettuce loosen the surface; radishes mark rows and are harvested before they compete.
Onion	CarrotBeetLettuceTomato	BeanPea	Strong sulfur scent masks carrot rust fly and aphids; lettuce and beet fill the row edges.
Garlic	TomatoCabbageBeet	BeanPea	Sulfur compounds repel aphids, Japanese beetles, and cabbage worms; cabbage and beet benefit.
Potato	BeanCornMarigold	TomatoCucumber	Marigold roots suppress nematodes; bean fixes nitrogen; corn provides a windbreak and shade.
Broccoli	OnionBeetHerbs	TomatoStrawberry	Onion and beet odors confuse cabbage pests; herbs draw in parasitic wasps and hoverflies.
Sweet corn	BeanSquashCucumber	Tomato	Bean fixes nitrogen; squash shades soil and suppresses weeds; cucumber climbs the stalks.
Winter squash	CornBeanNasturtium	Potato	Bean fixes nitrogen; nasturtium lures squash bugs away from fruit; corn shades young vines.
Pea	CarrotRadishCucumber	OnionGarlic	Carrot and radish fill the soil between rows; peas add nitrogen that cucumber and corn use later.
Basil	TomatoPepperOregano	RueSage	Aromatic oils repel flies and mosquitoes; may enhance tomato and pepper vigor through shared chemistry.
Cilantro	SpinachBeanTomato	Fennel	Spinach and bean share shoulder-season timing; cilantro flowers attract parasitic wasps and syrphids.
Parsley	TomatoAsparagusCarrot	MintLettuce	Tomato and asparagus share pest-predator benefits; parsley flowers feed tiny wasps that attack aphids.
Chives	CarrotTomatoAppleStrawberry	BeanPea	Onion scent repels aphids and Japanese beetles; flowers feed pollinators and parasitic wasps.
Mint	CabbageTomato	Everything perennial nearby: it takes over	Strong menthol scent confuses cabbage moths and ants; keep contained or it swallows the bed.
Oregano	PepperTomatoBasil	No known conflicts	Low Mediterranean herbs support peppers and tomatoes; flowers draw beneficial insects.
Thyme	CabbageStrawberryEggplant	No known conflicts	Creeping thyme repels cabbage worms and provides dry ground cover for strawberry beds.
Rosemary	CarrotBeanCabbage	No known conflicts	Aromatic oils deter carrot fly and bean beetles; tolerates the lean soil that herbs prefer.
Sage	RosemaryCabbageCarrot	CucumberOnion	Strong scent deters cabbage moths and carrot fly; rosemary and cabbage share the same dry-foot needs.
Dill	CabbageCucumberLettuceOnion	CarrotTomato	Umbel flowers attract parasitic wasps that prey on cabbage worms; cucumber and lettuce also benefit.
Strawberry	BeanLettuceSpinachBorage	Brassicas	Spinach and lettuce act as a living mulch; onion and chives repel slug trails and pests.
Raspberry	GarlicChivesYarrow	PotatoTomatoBlackberry (shared disease)	Garlic and chives repel Japanese beetles; yarrow and comfrey feed pollinators and predators.
Blueberry	StrawberryRhododendron	Anything needing lime	Strawberry acts as a weed-suppressing ground cover; rhododendron shares sharply acidic soil.
Blackberry	BeanGarlic	RaspberryNightshades	Bean fixes nitrogen at the row edge; garlic and chives repel cane borers and beetles.
Grape	BasilHyssopChives	CabbageRadish	Basil and chives repel Japanese beetles; hyssop and clover attract pollinators and predatory insects.
Fig	StrawberryRosemary	No known conflicts	Strawberry covers bare soil; rosemary and sage deter birds and pests with strong scent.
Apple	ChivesNasturtiumGarlicComfrey	Potato	Chives and garlic mask codling moth scent; nasturtium traps aphids and draws pollinators.
Pear	ChivesGarlicNasturtium	No known conflicts	Chives and garlic confuse pear psylla and codling moth; nasturtium traps aphids.
Peach	BasilChivesGarlic	No known conflicts	Basil and garlic mask oriental fruit moth; chives repel borers and attract pollinators.
Watermelon	CornRadishNasturtium	CucumberPotato	Corn provides dappled shade and wind protection; radish and nasturtium distract cucumber beetles.
Cantaloupe / Melon	CornRadishBean	Potato	Corn shades young vines; radish and bean fill the space without competing for the same nutrients.
Rhubarb	CabbageBeanBroccoli	No known conflicts	Cabbage and broccoli share cool-season timing; bean fixes nitrogen for the perennial crown.
Sweet Potato	Bush beanRadishMarigoldThyme	SquashPumpkin	Bush beans fix nitrogen for the long vining season; thyme and marigold mask the vine scent weevils track, and radish breaks the surface crust so slips root fast.
Eggplant	Bush beanMarigoldThymePepper	FennelPotato	Bush beans shade the soil and feed nitrogen; marigold suppresses root-knot nematodes and thyme confuses flea beetles hunting by smell.
Cabbage	DillOnionBeetThyme	TomatoStrawberryPole bean	Dill draws in parasitic wasps that hunt cabbage worm; onion and thyme mask the mustard scent that guides the cabbage moth to the bed.
Cauliflower	DillOnionSpinachBeet	TomatoStrawberry	Dill and other umbels host the wasps that parasitize cabbage worm; alliums nearby throw off the moth, and spinach uses the shaded ground between plants.
Brussels Sprouts	DillOnionThymeBeet	TomatoStrawberryPole bean	Umbels like dill pull in hoverflies and wasps that clear aphids from the tight sprout crevices where sprays never reach.
Swiss Chard	BeanOnionLettuceRadish	BeetSpinach	Beans and onions occupy different root depths and confuse leaf miner flies; avoid beet and spinach, which share the same family pests and diseases.
Collards	OnionDillThymeBeet	TomatoStrawberry	Alliums and thyme mask the brassica scent; dill and cilantro flowers feed the wasps and hoverflies that clean up aphids and worms.
Okra	PepperBasilBush beanSweet potato	Squash vine crops (shared borer pressure)	Bush beans feed nitrogen to a tall heavy feeder; basil and pepper share the heat window and mask okra's scent from aphids.
Turnip	PeaOnionLettuceThyme	PotatoOther brassicas in the same bed	Peas leave nitrogen for the greens; onion and thyme scent masks the bed from the root maggot fly that lays at the soil line.
Leek	CarrotBeetCeleryCabbage	BeanPea	The classic carrot and leek pairing works both ways: leek scent repels carrot rust fly while carrot foliage hides the leek from onion thrips.
Pumpkin	CornBeanNasturtiumRadish	Potato	The Three Sisters logic: corn gives height, beans feed nitrogen, and pumpkin's prickly leaves shade the soil and discourage browsing animals.
Asparagus	TomatoBasilParsleyMarigold	OnionGarlicPotato	Tomato roots release solanine that deters asparagus beetle while asparagus roots repel root-knot nematodes attacking the tomato: a genuinely two-way partnership.
Celery	LeekCabbageBeanTomato	CarrotParsnipCorn	Celery's strong scent helps mask cabbage from the white moth, while leeks and beans nearby don't compete for the shallow water celery constantly needs.
Arugula	LettuceOnionBeetCarrot	Other brassicas in the same bed	Interplanting with lettuce and onions dilutes the brassica scent flea beetles home in on, so damage spreads thin instead of shredding one block.
Plum	GarlicChivesDaffodilComfrey	Grass right up to the trunk	Alliums planted in the drip line deter aphids and voles; comfrey mines deep minerals and makes a mulch that feeds the tree back.
Cherry	ChivesGarlicClover understoryMarigold	Walnut (juglone)	A clover understory feeds pollinators and holds moisture; alliums at the trunk cut aphid pressure on new shoots.
Lavender	RosemaryThymeSageRoses	MintWater-hungry vegetables	Lavender is a pollinator magnet that also repels moths and aphids, which is why it belongs at the edges of vegetable beds and beside roses.
Tarragon	EggplantTomatoPepperSquash	Wet, heavy clay	Long treated as a nurse herb: its strong aroma masks neighbors from aphids and its flowers pull in the hoverflies that eat them.
Kohlrabi	OnionBeetCucumberDill	TomatoPole bean	Onion masks the brassica scent that guides cabbage moths in, and dill flowers draw the wasps that parasitize any worms that get past it.
Bok Choy	OnionRadishCilantro	TomatoStrawberry	Radish sown alongside sprouts fast and pulls flea beetles off the slower-growing bok choy leaves.
Napa Cabbage	OnionDillBeet	TomatoStrawberry	Dill's umbel flowers pull in the parasitic wasps that keep cabbage worm numbers down inside the tight head.
Mizuna	LettuceCarrotOnion	Other brassicas crowded in the same block	Interplanting with lettuce and carrot breaks up the solid brassica scent trail that flea beetles follow.
Tatsoi	OnionLettuceRadish	Other brassicas in the same bed	Onion scent nearby throws off the flea beetles that riddle tatsoi's tender rosette leaves.
Rutabaga	PeaOnionThyme	Other brassicas in rotation	Thyme's strong oils confuse the root maggot fly hunting by scent at the soil line.
Mustard Greens	OnionRadishDill	Other brassicas crowded together	Mustard's own pungent oils already deter many pests; interplanted radish and onion further dilute the brassica scent block.
Broccoli Raab	OnionDillBeet	TomatoStrawberry	Dill draws the parasitic wasps that check cabbage worm populations before they reach the small floret clusters.
Romanesco	DillOnionBeet	TomatoStrawberry	Same allium-and-umbel defense as cauliflower: onion masks the scent trail while dill feeds the wasps that clean up caterpillars.
Shallot	CarrotBeetLettuce	BeanPea	Same sulfur-scent defense as onion: it throws off carrot rust fly and aphids on nearby roots and greens.
Scallion (Green Onion)	CarrotLettuceTomato	BeanPea	Sulfur compounds mask carrot and lettuce from aphids and root maggot flies searching by scent.
Elephant Garlic	TomatoCabbageBeet	BeanPea	A mild leek relative rather than true garlic, it still throws sulfur scent that confuses aphids and cabbage moths.
Parsnip	OnionPeaRadish	Carrot (competes for the same root zone and pests)	Onion scent nearby confuses carrot rust fly, which also targets parsnip roots.
Salsify	OnionLettuce	Other tall root crops competing for depth	Shallow-rooted lettuce and onion share the bed without competing with salsify's long taproot.
Celeriac	LeekBeanTomato	CarrotParsnip	Like celery, its scent confounds cabbage moths, and leeks nearby don't pull water from the same shallow root zone.
Daikon Radish	CarrotLettucePea	Hyssop	Deep daikon roots break compacted subsoil, opening channels that neighboring carrot roots follow down.
Horseradish	PotatoCabbage	Nothing serious, but confine it: it spreads aggressively	Long grown at potato patch corners on the folk belief that its pungent roots deter Colorado potato beetle.
Jicama	CornBean	Nothing documented; needs a long frost-free season	As a legume it fixes some nitrogen for neighboring corn, though the vine itself needs a sturdy trellis or fence.
Burdock (Gobo)	LettuceRadish	Shallow beds: the taproot needs real depth	Its deep taproot occupies a different soil layer than shallow lettuce and radish planted alongside it.
Fava Bean	PotatoCabbageCorn	OnionGarlic	Fixes nitrogen early for potato and cabbage planted nearby; pinch aphid-laden tips off rather than spraying.
Lima Bean	CornSquashCarrot	OnionGarlic	Corn gives pole types a living trellis while lima's nitrogen-fixing roots feed the heavy-feeding corn.
Cowpea (Black-Eyed Pea)	CornSquashOkra	OnionGarlic	Extremely heat- and drought-tolerant nitrogen fixer that tolerates poor soil where corn and okra struggle.
Edamame (Vegetable Soybean)	CornCarrotCucumber	OnionGarlic	Fixes nitrogen for nearby corn and cucumber while its dense canopy shades out weeds.
Scarlet Runner Bean	CornSquashSunflower	OnionGarlic	A vigorous climber that fixes nitrogen while its scarlet flowers pull in hummingbirds and pollinators for the whole bed.
Lentil	CarrotCucumber	OnionGarlic	A low nitrogen-fixing cover that can be undersown between taller crops without shading them out.
Chickpea (Garbanzo)	CarrotCucumberCabbage	OnionGarlic	Fixes nitrogen in lean soil where cabbage and cucumber benefit most from the boost.
Peanut	CornSquash	Nothing documented; needs loose sandy soil to peg well	As a nitrogen fixer in sandy, well-drained soil, it feeds neighboring heavy feeders like corn.
Bitter Melon	CornBean	Potato	Beans fix nitrogen for this heavy feeder while a trellis keeps the vining fruit off damp soil.
Luffa (Vegetable Sponge Gourd)	CornBean	Potato	Needs a strong trellis; bean planted at its base fixes nitrogen for this long-season heavy feeder.
Honeydew Melon	CornRadishBean	Potato	Radish nearby distracts cucumber beetles from the young vines while corn provides light shade.
Butternut Squash	CornBeanNasturtium	Potato	Bean fixes nitrogen for this heavy feeder; nasturtium lures squash bugs off the sprawling vines.
Acorn Squash	CornBeanRadish	Potato	Radish distracts early cucumber beetles while bean fixes nitrogen for fruit set later in the season.
Spaghetti Squash	CornBeanNasturtium	Potato	Nasturtium as a trap crop keeps squash bugs off the long vines; corn offers a partial windbreak.
Hubbard Squash	CornBean	Potato	Bean fixes nitrogen for this long-vining, heavy-feeding squash; give it plenty of room to sprawl away from other crops.
Kabocha Squash	CornBeanRadish	Potato	Same three-sisters logic as other squash: beans feed nitrogen, corn adds height, radish distracts early beetles.
Delicata Squash	CornBeanNasturtium	Potato	Nasturtium sacrifices itself to squash bugs, keeping their pressure off delicata's thin, edible skin.
Patty Pan Squash	NasturtiumCornBean	Potato	Nasturtium traps squash bugs as a sacrificial crop, same as with zucchini, its close relative.
Cucamelon	BeanRadish	Potato	Radish loosens the surface for its shallow roots while the tiny grape-sized fruit rarely draws the beetles that hit true cucumbers.
Tomatillo	BasilPepperOnion	Fennel	Basil and onion mask the plant's scent from flea beetles the way they do for its tomato cousin.
Ground Cherry	BasilPepper	Fennel	Basil's scent confuses flea beetles that riddle the young leaves before the sprawling plant fills in.
Habanero Pepper	BasilOnionCarrot	BeansFennel	Basil and onion aromas mask hot peppers from flea beetles and aphids the same way they protect sweet peppers.
Jalapeño Pepper	BasilOnionCarrot	BeansFennel	Basil and onion confuse flea beetles and aphids by scent, the same defense used for bell peppers.
Poblano Pepper	BasilOnionCarrot	BeansFennel	Basil and onion mask scent trails that flea beetles and aphids use to find pepper foliage.
Cayenne Pepper	BasilOnionCarrot	BeansFennel	Same companion defense as other peppers: basil and onion scent throws off flea beetles hunting by smell.
Shishito Pepper	BasilOnionCarrot	BeansFennel	Basil and onion mask pepper scent from aphids and flea beetles the way they do for other Capsicum crops.
Endive	CarrotOnionRadish	Fennel	Carrot and onion fill the space around endive's low rosette without shading it out.
Escarole	CarrotOnionRadish	Fennel	Same shallow, fast-filling companions as endive, its broad-leafed cousin.
Radicchio	OnionCarrot	Fennel	Onion scent nearby helps mask this chicory relative from aphids drawn to tender inner leaves.
Mâche (Corn Salad)	LettuceSpinach	No known conflicts	Shares cool-season timing with lettuce and spinach and fills gaps between them without competing for light.
Sorrel	StrawberryChervil	No known conflicts	A low perennial that fills bed edges without shading strawberry crowns nearby.
Watercress		No known conflicts	Best grown alone in a container of running or frequently changed water rather than a shared bed.
Claytonia (Miner's Lettuce)	LettuceSpinach	No known conflicts	Tolerates the same cool, shaded conditions as spinach and self-sows readily to fill in gaps.
Orach (Mountain Spinach)	SpinachLettuce	No known conflicts	More heat- and bolt-tolerant than true spinach, giving a summer stand-in in the same bed.
Amaranth Greens (Callaloo)	CornBean	No known conflicts	Thrives in the same warm, fertile conditions as corn and beans without competing for the same nutrients heavily.
Malabar Spinach	BeanCorn	No known conflicts	A true heat-loving vine that fills a trellis spot other greens can't touch once summer temperatures climb.
New Zealand Spinach	TomatoBean	No known conflicts	Sprawls as a living mulch around tomato and bean, shading soil and keeping weeds down without competing much for light.
Quinoa	CornBeanSquash	Other Amaranthaceae like spinach and beet, which share leaf miner and aphid pressure	Its tall seed heads cast light shade that corn and squash below tolerate well in the classic three-sisters spacing.
Grain Amaranth	CornBean	BeetSpinach	A tall warm-season grower that shares the same heat and fertility needs as corn without competing for the same nutrients heavily.
Buckwheat	SquashBean	No known conflicts	Its fast, dense canopy shades out weeds and its flowers draw in the pollinators that squash and bean also depend on.
Sorghum (Grain)	CowpeaBean	No known conflicts	Like corn, it gives climbing beans a sturdy stalk while the legume returns nitrogen to the heavy-feeding grass.
Popcorn	BeanSquash	Sweet corn (cross-pollination ruins both crops' flavor and texture)	Same three-sisters logic as sweet corn: beans fix nitrogen and climb the stalks while squash shades the soil.
Dry Bush Bean	CornSquashCarrot	OnionGarlic	Fixes nitrogen for the corn and squash it's traditionally interplanted with, same as its snap bean relatives.
Sunflower (Seed)	CucumberCornBean	Potato	Tall stalks give cucumber and pole bean vines a living trellis and draw pollinators to the whole bed.
Flax (Seed)	CarrotPotato	No known conflicts	A slim, shallow-rooted plant that fills bed edges without shading nearby root crops.
French Tarragon	EggplantTomato	No known conflicts	A low, aromatic perennial that fills bed edges near tomato and eggplant without competing for root space.
Summer Savory	BeanOnion	No known conflicts	Its peppery scent is traditionally interplanted with beans to confuse Mexican bean beetle by smell.
Lemon Balm	TomatoSquash	Anything it can crowd out: it self-sows aggressively	Its lemony oils are thought to draw pollinators to nearby squash blossoms while confusing aphids by scent.
Marjoram	PepperTomatoEggplant	No known conflicts	A milder cousin of oregano that shares the same lean-soil companion role for nightshades.
Bulb Fennel (Florence Fennel)	Nothing reliably good: fennel inhibits many neighbors	TomatoBeanPepperDill (crosses and both bolt)	Fennel roots release compounds that suppress the growth of most garden vegetables, so it does best isolated in its own bed or border.
Borage	TomatoSquashStrawberry	No known conflicts	Its blue flowers are a strong pollinator draw and are said to improve fruit set on tomato and squash grown nearby.
Chamomile (German)	CabbageOnionCucumber	No known conflicts	Long called the 'plant's physician,' it's thought to improve the vigor and flavor of cabbage and onion grown close by.
Stevia	PepperTomato	No known conflicts	A low, tender perennial that fills bed edges without shading nearby nightshades.
Lovage	BeanPotato	No known conflicts	Its umbel flowers draw the same parasitic wasps that dill and fennel attract, helping check aphids nearby.
Shiso (Perilla)	CucumberTomato	No known conflicts	Its strong scent is thought to help mask nearby cucumber and tomato from some leaf-feeding insects.
Lemongrass	TomatoPepper	No known conflicts	Citronella compounds in the leaves are thought to mask nearby crops from some flying pests.
Catnip	SquashCucumber	Anywhere neighborhood cats will trample nearby seedlings	Compounds in the leaves have shown repellent effects on flea beetle and aphid in university trials.
Anise Hyssop	SquashBean	No known conflicts	Its long bloom spike is one of the strongest pollinator draws in the herb garden, boosting fruit set on nearby squash.
Anise	Coriander	CarrotDill (cross-pollinates and both bolt in competition)	Its umbel flowers draw the same beneficial wasps as dill and fennel, though it should be kept away from its close relatives.
Caraway	PeaOnion	FennelDill	Its umbel flowers in year two feed the same parasitic wasps that check aphid and caterpillar numbers nearby.
Epazote	BeanSquash	No known conflicts	Traditionally interplanted with beans in Mexican milpa gardens; its pungent oils are thought to discourage some leaf-feeding insects.
Culantro (Recao)	PepperTomato	No known conflicts	A shade-tolerant understory herb that fills the low light beneath taller pepper and tomato plants.
Bay Laurel		No known conflicts	Grown as a solitary specimen shrub or container plant rather than for direct companion benefits to neighbors.
Pawpaw	PersimmonElderberry	No known conflicts	As an understory tree in the wild, it thrives with the same partial shade and moist soil that elderberry and young persimmon tolerate.
American Persimmon	PawpawElderberry	No known conflicts	A tough, deep-rooted native tree that tolerates the same poor, variable soils as pawpaw planted nearby.
Mulberry	CurrantRaspberry	No known conflicts	Its dense canopy draws fruit-eating birds away from lower berry crops planted underneath or nearby.
Elderberry	PawpawCurrant	No known conflicts	Tolerates the damp, part-shaded ground that pawpaw and currant also prefer, filling out a hedgerow planting.
Black Currant	GooseberryElderberry	White pine (both host white pine blister rust; check local restrictions before planting)	Shares cool, moist-soil preferences with gooseberry and tolerates the light shade elderberry casts nearby.
Gooseberry	Black currantRaspberry	No known conflicts	Its thorny structure and similar soil needs make it a natural hedgerow partner for currant and raspberry.
Aronia (Black Chokeberry)	ElderberryBlueberry	No known conflicts	Tolerates the same acidic, moist soil blueberry needs and fills a hedgerow slot with almost no pest pressure of its own.
Honeyberry (Haskap)	CurrantBlueberry	No known conflicts	Its extreme cold tolerance fills the coldest, earliest-blooming slot in a mixed berry planting where little else survives.
Seaberry (Sea Buckthorn)	Any hedgerow shrub needing a nitrogen boost	No known conflicts	A nitrogen-fixing shrub that improves poor, sandy soil for less hardy plants sharing the hedgerow.
Quince	ApplePear	No known conflicts	Shares pollinators and orchard care with apple and pear, its close relatives, though it doesn't need a second tree to fruit.
Apricot	ChiveGarlic	Black walnut	Alliums planted at the drip line are thought to deter borers the same way they help other stone fruit.
Nectarine	ChiveGarlic	Black walnut	Same fuzzy-skin genetics as peach without the fuzz; alliums at the base help deter borers by scent.
Pomegranate		No known conflicts	Grown as a standalone specimen; its own drought tolerance means it doesn't compete hard with neighbors for water.
Jujube (Chinese Date)		No known conflicts	Extremely drought- and heat-tolerant once established, tolerating poor soil that would stress most other fruit trees nearby.
Hardy Kiwi		No known conflicts	A vigorous vine best grown alone on its own strong arbor rather than sharing support with other climbers.
Goji Berry		TomatoPepperEggplant (shares nightshade pests and diseases)	As a nightshade relative it should be kept out of tomato and pepper rotation rather than interplanted with them.
Cranberry	Blueberry	No known conflicts	Shares the same acidic, moisture-retentive soil that blueberry needs, though cranberry wants it wetter still.
Lingonberry	BlueberryCranberry	No known conflicts	A low, acid-loving groundcover that fills the space beneath and between taller blueberry bushes.
Serviceberry (Juneberry)	BlueberryElderberry	No known conflicts	A native edible that draws pollinators early in spring, ahead of many orchard fruits, and tolerates the same varied soils as elderberry.
Hazelnut (Filbert)		No known conflicts	Plant two different cultivars: it's wind-pollinated and self-incompatible, so a lone bush rarely nuts well.
Pecan		Most garden vegetables (roots secrete juglone, similar to black walnut, though less concentrated)	A massive, long-lived shade tree grown alone; its root zone secretes juglone that stunts many nearby garden plants.
Black Walnut		TomatoPepperAppleBlueberry (all sensitive to juglone toxicity from the roots)	Its roots secrete juglone, which stunts or kills many common vegetables and fruits; keep susceptible plants well outside the drip line.
Chestnut		No known conflicts	Plant two genetically distinct trees; it's self-incompatible and needs cross-pollination from a different cultivar.
Almond	ChiveGarlic	No known conflicts	A close relative of peach with the same allium-at-the-base companion logic to help deter borers by scent.
Lemon (Meyer)	MarigoldBasil	No known conflicts	Marigold and basil at the base draw in aphid predators and help mask new growth from citrus leafminer moths.
Orange	MarigoldBasil	No known conflicts	Same companion logic as lemon: marigold and basil nearby support the beneficial insects that check scale and aphid.
Lime (Key Lime)	MarigoldBasil	No known conflicts	Same aromatic companion pairing as other citrus, helping mask new flush growth from leafminer moths.
Olive		No known conflicts	A drought-tolerant Mediterranean tree grown as a standalone specimen with minimal water competition for neighbors.
Loquat	ComfreyClover	No known conflicts	A living clover understory keeps soil covered and feeds nitrogen to the shallow feeder roots without competing for canopy light.
Avocado		Turfgrass under the canopy	Grown as a standalone specimen; a coarse leaf-litter mulch instead of understory planting suppresses the root rot that kills most backyard trees.
Banana	Sweet PotatoComfrey	No known conflicts	Sweet potato vines shade and cool the shallow root mat, cutting evaporation from a plant that needs steady moisture.
Papaya	BeanMarigold	No known conflicts	Beans fix nitrogen for a heavy feeder that fruits continuously; marigold suppresses root-knot nematodes in the same bed.
Passionfruit		No known conflicts	A vigorous climber that shades out anything planted beneath it, so it belongs on its own trellis line.
Pineapple Guava	RosemaryLavender	No known conflicts	Shares the same lean soil and low-water regime as Mediterranean herbs, so the planting can be watered as one zone.
Medlar	ComfreyChives	No known conflicts	Chives at the drip line deter aphids on new growth without shading a slow-growing small tree.
Chokecherry	CurrantServiceberry	No known conflicts	Planted in a mixed hedgerow, the staggered bloom of currant and serviceberry keeps pollinators on site through the whole spring.
Highbush Cranberry	ElderberryServiceberry	No known conflicts	Grouped with other native shrubs it forms a windbreak whose leaf litter keeps the shallow roots cool and damp.

Seed-starting & planting-out calendar. Zone 6b

Dates recalculated from your zone's average last frost.

Crop	Start indoors	Method	Into the ground	Days to maturity
Tomato	2026-03-14	Transplant	2026-05-09	60-85 days
Pepper	2026-02-28	Transplant	2026-05-09	60-90 days
Lettuce	2026-03-28	Transplant	2026-04-11	30-60 days
Carrot	—	Direct sow	2026-04-04	60-80 days
Bush bean	—	Direct sow	2026-05-02	50-65 days
Cucumber	2026-04-04	Transplant	2026-05-09	50-70 days
Zucchini	2026-04-04	Transplant	2026-05-09	45-55 days
Kale	2026-03-14	Transplant	2026-04-04	50-65 days
Spinach	—	Direct sow	2026-03-28	35-45 days
Beet	—	Direct sow	2026-04-04	50-70 days
Radish	—	Direct sow	2026-03-28	22-30 days
Onion	2026-02-14	Transplant	2026-04-11	90-120 days
Potato	—	Direct sow	2026-04-11	70-120 days
Broccoli	2026-03-14	Transplant	2026-04-04	60-90 days
Sweet corn	—	Direct sow	2026-05-09	65-90 days
Winter squash	2026-04-04	Transplant	2026-05-09	80-110 days
Pea	—	Direct sow	2026-03-21	55-70 days
Basil	2026-03-14	Transplant	2026-05-09	60-90 days
Cilantro	—	Direct sow	2026-04-11	45-70 days
Parsley	2026-02-28	Transplant	2026-04-11	70-90 days
Chives	2026-02-28	Transplant	2026-04-04	80-90 days (perennial)
Oregano	2026-02-28	Transplant	2026-05-09	80-90 days (perennial)
Thyme	2026-02-28	Transplant	2026-05-09	75-90 days (perennial)
Rosemary	2026-02-14	Transplant	2026-05-09	1st-year harvest (perennial in zone 7+)
Sage	2026-02-28	Transplant	2026-05-09	75 days (perennial)
Dill	—	Direct sow	2026-04-25	40-60 days
Watermelon	2026-04-04	Transplant	2026-05-09	70-100 days
Cantaloupe / Melon	2026-04-04	Transplant	2026-05-09	70-90 days
Eggplant	2026-02-28	Transplant	2026-05-16	70-85 days
Cabbage	2026-03-14	Transplant	2026-04-11	70-100 days
Cauliflower	2026-03-14	Transplant	2026-04-11	60-85 days
Brussels Sprouts	2026-03-14	Transplant	2026-05-09	90-130 days
Swiss Chard	2026-03-28	Transplant	2026-04-11	50-60 days
Collards	2026-03-21	Transplant	2026-04-11	60-85 days
Okra	2026-03-28	Transplant	2026-05-16	50-65 days
Turnip	—	Direct sow	2026-03-28	40-60 days
Leek	2026-02-14	Transplant	2026-04-11	100-120 days
Pumpkin	2026-04-04	Transplant	2026-05-09	90-120 days
Celery	2026-02-14	Transplant	2026-05-09	100-130 days
Arugula	—	Direct sow	2026-03-28	25-40 days
Lavender	2026-02-14	Transplant	2026-05-09	Yr 2 full bloom (perennial)
Kohlrabi	2026-03-14	Transplant	2026-04-04	45-60 days
Bok Choy	2026-03-28	Transplant	2026-04-04	45-60 days
Napa Cabbage	2026-03-21	Transplant	2026-04-11	55-80 days
Mizuna	—	Direct sow	2026-03-28	21-40 days
Tatsoi	—	Direct sow	2026-03-28	40-50 days
Rutabaga	—	Direct sow	2026-01-31	80-100 days
Mustard Greens	—	Direct sow	2026-03-28	30-50 days
Broccoli Raab	—	Direct sow	2026-03-28	40-50 days
Romanesco	2026-03-14	Transplant	2026-04-11	75-100 days
Shallot	—	Direct sow	2026-03-28	90-120 days
Scallion (Green Onion)	2026-02-28	Transplant	2026-04-04	60-80 days
Parsnip	—	Direct sow	2026-04-04	100-130 days
Salsify	—	Direct sow	2026-04-04	100-150 days
Celeriac	2026-02-14	Transplant	2026-05-09	100-120 days
Daikon Radish	—	Direct sow	2026-02-28	50-70 days
Jicama	2026-02-28	Transplant	2026-05-16	150-180 days
Burdock (Gobo)	—	Direct sow	2026-04-11	100-120 days
Fava Bean	—	Direct sow	2026-03-14	80-100 days
Lima Bean	—	Direct sow	2026-05-09	65-90 days
Cowpea (Black-Eyed Pea)	—	Direct sow	2026-05-09	60-90 days
Edamame (Vegetable Soybean)	—	Direct sow	2026-05-09	75-90 days
Scarlet Runner Bean	—	Direct sow	2026-05-02	60-75 days
Lentil	—	Direct sow	2026-04-04	80-110 days
Chickpea (Garbanzo)	—	Direct sow	2026-04-18	90-120 days
Peanut	2026-03-28	Transplant	2026-05-09	100-150 days
Bitter Melon	2026-03-28	Transplant	2026-05-09	60-90 days
Luffa (Vegetable Sponge Gourd)	2026-03-28	Transplant	2026-05-09	90-150 days
Honeydew Melon	2026-04-04	Transplant	2026-05-09	80-100 days
Butternut Squash	2026-04-04	Transplant	2026-05-09	80-110 days
Acorn Squash	2026-04-04	Transplant	2026-05-09	75-100 days
Spaghetti Squash	2026-04-04	Transplant	2026-05-09	85-100 days
Hubbard Squash	2026-04-04	Transplant	2026-05-09	100-120 days
Kabocha Squash	2026-04-04	Transplant	2026-05-09	85-100 days
Delicata Squash	2026-04-04	Transplant	2026-05-09	80-100 days
Patty Pan Squash	2026-04-04	Transplant	2026-05-09	45-55 days
Cucamelon	2026-03-14	Transplant	2026-05-09	60-75 days
Tomatillo	2026-03-14	Transplant	2026-05-09	65-100 days
Ground Cherry	2026-03-14	Transplant	2026-05-09	70-90 days
Habanero Pepper	2026-02-14	Transplant	2026-05-09	90-110 days
Jalapeño Pepper	2026-02-28	Transplant	2026-05-09	70-80 days
Poblano Pepper	2026-02-28	Transplant	2026-05-09	65-80 days
Cayenne Pepper	2026-02-28	Transplant	2026-05-09	70-90 days
Shishito Pepper	2026-02-28	Transplant	2026-05-09	60-75 days
Endive	2026-03-28	Transplant	2026-04-11	60-90 days
Escarole	2026-03-28	Transplant	2026-04-11	60-90 days
Radicchio	2026-03-14	Transplant	2026-04-11	65-85 days
Mâche (Corn Salad)	—	Direct sow	2026-03-14	45-60 days
Sorrel	2026-03-14	Transplant	2026-04-11	60 days (perennial)
Watercress	—	Direct sow	2026-04-11	50-60 days
Claytonia (Miner's Lettuce)	—	Direct sow	2026-03-14	40-60 days
Orach (Mountain Spinach)	—	Direct sow	2026-03-28	40-50 days
Amaranth Greens (Callaloo)	—	Direct sow	2026-05-09	30-45 days
Malabar Spinach	2026-03-14	Transplant	2026-05-16	55-70 days
New Zealand Spinach	2026-03-28	Transplant	2026-05-09	55-70 days
Quinoa	—	Direct sow	2026-04-18	90-120 days
Grain Amaranth	—	Direct sow	2026-05-09	90-120 days
Buckwheat	—	Direct sow	2026-05-09	70-90 days
Sorghum (Grain)	—	Direct sow	2026-05-09	90-120 days
Popcorn	—	Direct sow	2026-05-09	100-110 days
Dry Bush Bean	—	Direct sow	2026-05-02	85-100 days
Sunflower (Seed)	—	Direct sow	2026-05-02	80-120 days
Flax (Seed)	—	Direct sow	2026-04-04	90-110 days
Summer Savory	2026-03-14	Transplant	2026-05-09	60-70 days
Lemon Balm	2026-02-28	Transplant	2026-05-09	70-75 days (perennial)
Marjoram	2026-02-28	Transplant	2026-05-09	60-90 days
Bulb Fennel (Florence Fennel)	2026-03-28	Transplant	2026-04-11	65-90 days
Borage	—	Direct sow	2026-05-02	55-75 days
Chamomile (German)	2026-03-14	Transplant	2026-04-11	60-65 days
Stevia	2026-02-28	Transplant	2026-05-09	80-90 days
Lovage	2026-02-28	Transplant	2026-05-09	75-85 days (perennial)
Shiso (Perilla)	2026-03-14	Transplant	2026-05-09	45-50 days
Lemongrass	2026-02-14	Transplant	2026-05-16	100 days (perennial in zone 9+)
Catnip	2026-02-28	Transplant	2026-05-09	60-90 days (perennial)
Anise Hyssop	2026-02-28	Transplant	2026-05-09	90 days (perennial)
Anise	2026-03-14	Transplant	2026-05-02	100-120 days
Caraway	—	Direct sow	2026-04-11	365 days (biennial, seed in year two)
Epazote	2026-03-14	Transplant	2026-05-09	60-80 days
Culantro (Recao)	2026-02-28	Transplant	2026-05-09	80-100 days
Papaya	2026-02-28	Transplant	2026-05-23	9-12 months to fruit
Passionfruit	2026-02-28	Transplant	2026-05-09	12-18 months to bearing (perennial vine)

Spacing, sun & seed depth

Spacing is in-row for intensive beds; add 6–12 in between rows for walking paths.

Crop	Sun	Spacing	Seed depth	Min. container
Tomato	Full sun, 8+ hrs	24-36 in	¾–1 in	5–7 gal
Pepper	Full sun	18 in	¾–1 in	5–7 gal
Lettuce	Full sun to part shade	8-12 in	½ in	3 gal
Carrot	Full sun	2-3 in	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Bush bean	Full sun	4-6 in	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Cucumber	Full sun	12 in (trellis)	½ in	3 gal
Zucchini	Full sun	24-36 in	¾–1 in	5–7 gal
Kale	Full sun to part shade	18 in	¾–1 in	5–7 gal
Spinach	Part shade in summer	4-6 in	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Beet	Full sun	3-4 in	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Radish	Full sun	1-2 in	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Onion	Full sun	4-6 in	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Garlic	Full sun	4-6 in	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Potato	Full sun	12 in	½ in	3 gal
Broccoli	Full sun	18-24 in	¾–1 in	5–7 gal
Sweet corn	Full sun	12 in (block plant)	½ in	3 gal
Winter squash	Full sun	36-48 in	1–1½ in	10–20 gal
Pea	Full sun to part shade	2-4 in	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Basil	Full sun, 6-8 hrs	10-12 in	½ in	3 gal
Cilantro	Full sun to part shade	6-8 in	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Parsley	Full sun to part shade	8-10 in	½ in	3 gal
Chives	Full sun to part shade	6-8 in	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Mint	Part shade to full sun	18-24 in (contain!)	¾–1 in	5–7 gal
Oregano	Full sun	12-18 in	½ in	3 gal
Thyme	Full sun	10-12 in	½ in	3 gal
Rosemary	Full sun	24-36 in	¾–1 in	5–7 gal
Sage	Full sun	18-24 in	¾–1 in	5–7 gal
Dill	Full sun	10-12 in	½ in	3 gal
Strawberry	Full sun	12-18 in	½ in	3 gal
Raspberry	Full sun	24-36 in in rows 6 ft apart	¾–1 in	5–7 gal
Blueberry	Full sun	4-6 ft	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Blackberry	Full sun	3-4 ft in rows 8 ft apart	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Grape	Full sun, 8+ hrs	6-8 ft on a trellis	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Fig	Full sun	10-15 ft (tree)	½ in	3 gal
Apple	Full sun	10-15 ft (semi-dwarf)	½ in	3 gal
Pear	Full sun	12-20 ft (standard)	½ in	3 gal
Peach	Full sun	12-15 ft (semi-dwarf)	½ in	3 gal
Watermelon	Full sun, 8+ hrs	36-72 in on a mound	1–1½ in	10–20 gal
Cantaloupe / Melon	Full sun	24-36 in on a mound	¾–1 in	5–7 gal
Rhubarb	Full sun to part shade	36-48 in	1–1½ in	10–20 gal
Sweet Potato	Full sun, 8+ hrs	12-18 in, rows 36 in	½ in	3 gal
Eggplant	Full sun, 8+ hrs	18-24 in	¾–1 in	5–7 gal
Cabbage	Full sun	12-18 in	½ in	3 gal
Cauliflower	Full sun	18-24 in	¾–1 in	5–7 gal
Brussels Sprouts	Full sun	18-24 in	¾–1 in	5–7 gal
Swiss Chard	Full sun to part shade	8-12 in	½ in	3 gal
Collards	Full sun to part shade	18-24 in	¾–1 in	5–7 gal
Okra	Full sun, 8+ hrs	12-18 in, rows 36 in	½ in	3 gal
Turnip	Full sun	4-6 in	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Leek	Full sun	6 in, rows 12 in	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Pumpkin	Full sun	36-60 in on a mound	1–1½ in	10–20 gal
Asparagus	Full sun	12-18 in, rows 48 in	½ in	3 gal
Celery	Full sun to part shade	8-10 in	½ in	3 gal
Arugula	Full sun to part shade	4-6 in	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Plum	Full sun	15-20 ft	¾–1 in	5–7 gal
Cherry	Full sun	15-25 ft (8-10 ft dwarf)	¾–1 in	5–7 gal
Lavender	Full sun, 8+ hrs	18-24 in	¾–1 in	5–7 gal
Tarragon	Full sun to part shade	18-24 in	¾–1 in	5–7 gal
Kohlrabi	Full sun to part shade	6-8 in	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Bok Choy	Full sun to part shade	6-10 in	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Napa Cabbage	Full sun to part shade	12-18 in	½ in	3 gal
Mizuna	Full sun to part shade	6-8 in	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Tatsoi	Full sun to part shade	8-10 in	½ in	3 gal
Rutabaga	Full sun	6-8 in	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Mustard Greens	Full sun to part shade	6-10 in	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Broccoli Raab	Full sun	6-8 in	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Romanesco	Full sun	18-24 in	¾–1 in	5–7 gal
Shallot	Full sun	4-6 in	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Scallion (Green Onion)	Full sun to part shade	2-3 in	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Elephant Garlic	Full sun	8-10 in	½ in	3 gal
Parsnip	Full sun	3-4 in	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Salsify	Full sun	3-4 in	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Celeriac	Full sun to part shade	8-10 in	½ in	3 gal
Daikon Radish	Full sun	4-6 in	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Horseradish	Full sun to part shade	12-18 in	½ in	3 gal
Jicama	Full sun, 8+ hrs	12 in on a trellis	½ in	3 gal
Burdock (Gobo)	Full sun to part shade	8-12 in	½ in	3 gal
Fava Bean	Full sun	6-10 in	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Lima Bean	Full sun	4-6 in bush, 6-8 in pole	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Cowpea (Black-Eyed Pea)	Full sun	4-6 in	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Edamame (Vegetable Soybean)	Full sun	3-4 in	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Scarlet Runner Bean	Full sun	6-8 in on a trellis	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Lentil	Full sun	2-3 in	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Chickpea (Garbanzo)	Full sun	4-6 in	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Peanut	Full sun, 8+ hrs	8-10 in	½ in	3 gal
Bitter Melon	Full sun, 8+ hrs	12-18 in on a trellis	½ in	3 gal
Luffa (Vegetable Sponge Gourd)	Full sun, 8+ hrs	24-36 in on a sturdy trellis	¾–1 in	5–7 gal
Honeydew Melon	Full sun, 8+ hrs	24-36 in on a mound	¾–1 in	5–7 gal
Butternut Squash	Full sun	36-48 in	1–1½ in	10–20 gal
Acorn Squash	Full sun	24-36 in	¾–1 in	5–7 gal
Spaghetti Squash	Full sun	36-48 in	1–1½ in	10–20 gal
Hubbard Squash	Full sun	48-60 in	1–1½ in	10–20 gal
Kabocha Squash	Full sun	36-48 in	1–1½ in	10–20 gal
Delicata Squash	Full sun	24-36 in	¾–1 in	5–7 gal
Patty Pan Squash	Full sun	24-36 in	¾–1 in	5–7 gal
Cucamelon	Full sun	12 in on a trellis	½ in	3 gal
Tomatillo	Full sun	24-36 in	¾–1 in	5–7 gal
Ground Cherry	Full sun	18-24 in	¾–1 in	5–7 gal
Habanero Pepper	Full sun	18-24 in	¾–1 in	5–7 gal
Jalapeño Pepper	Full sun	18 in	¾–1 in	5–7 gal
Poblano Pepper	Full sun	18 in	¾–1 in	5–7 gal
Cayenne Pepper	Full sun	18 in	¾–1 in	5–7 gal
Shishito Pepper	Full sun	18 in	¾–1 in	5–7 gal
Endive	Full sun to part shade	8-12 in	½ in	3 gal
Escarole	Full sun to part shade	10-12 in	½ in	3 gal
Radicchio	Full sun to part shade	8-10 in	½ in	3 gal
Mâche (Corn Salad)	Full sun to part shade	4-6 in	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Sorrel	Full sun to part shade	8-12 in	½ in	3 gal
Watercress	Full sun to part shade	4-6 in	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Claytonia (Miner's Lettuce)	Part shade	4-6 in	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Orach (Mountain Spinach)	Full sun to part shade	10-12 in	½ in	3 gal
Amaranth Greens (Callaloo)	Full sun	8-12 in	½ in	3 gal
Malabar Spinach	Full sun	12 in on a trellis	½ in	3 gal
New Zealand Spinach	Full sun	18-24 in	¾–1 in	5–7 gal
Quinoa	Full sun	8-12 in	½ in	3 gal
Grain Amaranth	Full sun	10-14 in	½ in	3 gal
Buckwheat	Full sun to part shade	3-6 in	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Sorghum (Grain)	Full sun	6-8 in	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Popcorn	Full sun	10-12 in (block plant)	½ in	3 gal
Dry Bush Bean	Full sun	4-6 in	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Sunflower (Seed)	Full sun	12-24 in	½ in	3 gal
Flax (Seed)	Full sun	2-4 in	¼ in	1 gal / window box
French Tarragon	Full sun to part shade	18-24 in	¾–1 in	5–7 gal
Summer Savory	Full sun	6-10 in	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Lemon Balm	Full sun to part shade	18-24 in	¾–1 in	5–7 gal
Marjoram	Full sun	8-10 in	½ in	3 gal
Bulb Fennel (Florence Fennel)	Full sun	8-12 in	½ in	3 gal
Borage	Full sun to part shade	12-18 in	½ in	3 gal
Chamomile (German)	Full sun to part shade	6-8 in	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Stevia	Full sun to part shade	12-18 in	½ in	3 gal
Lovage	Full sun to part shade	24-36 in	¾–1 in	5–7 gal
Shiso (Perilla)	Full sun to part shade	10-12 in	½ in	3 gal
Lemongrass	Full sun	24 in	¾–1 in	5–7 gal
Catnip	Full sun to part shade	18-24 in	¾–1 in	5–7 gal
Anise Hyssop	Full sun to part shade	12-18 in	½ in	3 gal
Anise	Full sun	8-12 in	½ in	3 gal
Caraway	Full sun	6-8 in	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Epazote	Full sun	12-18 in	½ in	3 gal
Culantro (Recao)	Part shade to full sun	8-10 in	½ in	3 gal
Bay Laurel	Full sun to part shade	36-48 in (or a large pot)	1–1½ in	10–20 gal
Pawpaw	Part shade when young, full sun once established	8-15 ft	½ in	3 gal
American Persimmon	Full sun	20-35 ft	¾–1 in	5–7 gal
Mulberry	Full sun	15-30 ft	¾–1 in	5–7 gal
Elderberry	Full sun to part shade	6-10 ft	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Black Currant	Full sun to part shade	4-5 ft	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Gooseberry	Full sun to part shade	4-5 ft	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Aronia (Black Chokeberry)	Full sun to part shade	4-6 ft	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Honeyberry (Haskap)	Full sun to part shade	4-6 ft	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Seaberry (Sea Buckthorn)	Full sun	6-12 ft	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Quince	Full sun	12-18 ft	½ in	3 gal
Apricot	Full sun	15-20 ft	¾–1 in	5–7 gal
Nectarine	Full sun	15-20 ft	¾–1 in	5–7 gal
Pomegranate	Full sun	10-15 ft	½ in	3 gal
Jujube (Chinese Date)	Full sun	15-20 ft	¾–1 in	5–7 gal
Hardy Kiwi	Full sun to part shade	10-15 ft on a sturdy trellis	½ in	3 gal
Goji Berry	Full sun	4-6 ft	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Cranberry	Full sun	6-12 in (dense groundcover)	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Lingonberry	Part shade to full sun	12-18 in	½ in	3 gal
Serviceberry (Juneberry)	Full sun to part shade	6-15 ft	¼ in	1 gal / window box
Hazelnut (Filbert)	Full sun to part shade	15-20 ft	¾–1 in	5–7 gal
Pecan	Full sun	40-70 ft	1–1½ in	10–20 gal
Black Walnut	Full sun	50-70 ft	1–1½ in	10–20 gal
Chestnut	Full sun	35-50 ft	1–1½ in	10–20 gal
Almond	Full sun	15-25 ft	¾–1 in	5–7 gal
Lemon (Meyer)	Full sun	8-12 ft (or a large container)	½ in	3 gal
Orange	Full sun	12-25 ft	½ in	3 gal
Lime (Key Lime)	Full sun	8-12 ft (or a large container)	½ in	3 gal
Olive	Full sun	15-25 ft	¾–1 in	5–7 gal
Loquat	Full sun to part shade	20-25 ft	¾–1 in	5–7 gal
Avocado	Full sun	20-30 ft	¾–1 in	5–7 gal
Banana	Full sun	8-10 ft	½ in	3 gal
Papaya	Full sun	8-10 ft	½ in	3 gal
Passionfruit	Full sun	10-12 ft	½ in	3 gal
Pineapple Guava	Full sun	12-15 ft	½ in	3 gal
Medlar	Full sun	12-15 ft	½ in	3 gal
Chokecherry	Full sun to part shade	10-15 ft	½ in	3 gal
Highbush Cranberry	Full sun to part shade	8-10 ft	½ in	3 gal

Crop rotation by plant family

Rotate each family to a new bed for 3 years. Same-family repeats concentrate soil disease and family-specific pests.

Brassicaceae

Year 1 bed

Kale, Radish, Broccoli, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Brussels Sprouts, Collards, Turnip, Arugula, Kohlrabi, Bok Choy, Napa Cabbage, Mizuna, Tatsoi, Rutabaga, Mustard Greens, Broccoli Raab, Romanesco, Daikon Radish, Horseradish, Watercress

Heavy nitrogen users. Rotate hard to break clubroot and cabbage root maggot cycles.

Cucurbitaceae

Year 2 bed

Cucumber, Zucchini, Winter squash, Watermelon, Cantaloupe / Melon, Pumpkin, Bitter Melon, Luffa (Vegetable Sponge Gourd), Honeydew Melon, Butternut Squash, Acorn Squash, Spaghetti Squash, Hubbard Squash, Kabocha Squash, Delicata Squash, Patty Pan Squash, Cucamelon

Heavy feeders and sprawlers. Follow with a legume or a cover crop.

Rosaceae

Year 3 bed

Strawberry, Raspberry, Blackberry, Apple, Pear, Peach, Plum, Cherry, Aronia (Black Chokeberry), Quince, Apricot, Nectarine, Serviceberry (Juneberry), Almond, Loquat, Medlar, Chokecherry

Feeds moderately. Follow with a legume or cover crop.

Lamiaceae

Year 4 bed

Basil, Mint, Oregano, Thyme, Rosemary, Sage, Lavender, Summer Savory, Lemon Balm, Marjoram, Shiso (Perilla), Catnip, Anise Hyssop

Feeds moderately. Follow with a legume or cover crop.

Solanaceae

Year 1 bed

Tomato, Pepper, Potato, Eggplant, Tomatillo, Ground Cherry, Habanero Pepper, Jalapeño Pepper, Poblano Pepper, Cayenne Pepper, Shishito Pepper, Goji Berry

Heavy feeders. Never follow themselves. Blight and verticillium persist in soil for years.

Apiaceae

Year 2 bed

Carrot, Cilantro, Parsley, Dill, Celery, Parsnip, Celeriac, Bulb Fennel (Florence Fennel), Lovage, Anise, Caraway, Culantro (Recao)

Light feeders with deep taproots that break compaction.

Fabaceae

Year 3 bed

Bush bean, Pea, Jicama, Fava Bean, Lima Bean, Cowpea (Black-Eyed Pea), Edamame (Vegetable Soybean), Scarlet Runner Bean, Lentil, Chickpea (Garbanzo), Peanut, Dry Bush Bean

Nitrogen fixers. Plant these after heavy feeders to rebuild the bed.

Asteraceae

Year 4 bed

Lettuce, Tarragon, Salsify, Burdock (Gobo), Endive, Escarole, Radicchio, Sunflower (Seed), French Tarragon, Chamomile (German), Stevia

Light feeders, quick turnaround: fits anywhere in the rotation.

Amaranthaceae

Year 1 bed

Spinach, Beet, Swiss Chard, Orach (Mountain Spinach), Amaranth Greens (Callaloo), Quinoa, Grain Amaranth, Epazote

Moderate feeders; sensitive to acid soil, keep pH above 6.0.

Amaryllidaceae

Year 2 bed

Onion, Garlic, Chives, Shallot, Scallion (Green Onion), Elephant Garlic

Light feeders. Good gap-fillers between heavy-feeder years.

Poaceae

Year 3 bed

Sweet corn, Sorghum (Grain), Popcorn, Lemongrass

Very heavy nitrogen feeder. Always follow with legumes.

Ericaceae

Year 4 bed

Blueberry, Cranberry, Lingonberry

Feeds moderately. Follow with a legume or cover crop.

Polygonaceae

Year 1 bed

Rhubarb, Sorrel, Buckwheat

Feeds moderately. Follow with a legume or cover crop.

Rutaceae

Year 2 bed

Lemon (Meyer), Orange, Lime (Key Lime)

Feeds moderately. Follow with a legume or cover crop.

Moraceae

Year 3 bed

Fig, Mulberry

Feeds moderately. Follow with a legume or cover crop.

Lauraceae

Year 4 bed

Bay Laurel, Avocado

Feeds moderately. Follow with a legume or cover crop.

Adoxaceae

Year 1 bed

Elderberry, Highbush Cranberry

Feeds moderately. Follow with a legume or cover crop.

Grossulariaceae

Year 2 bed

Black Currant, Gooseberry

Feeds moderately. Follow with a legume or cover crop.

Juglandaceae

Year 3 bed

Pecan, Black Walnut

Feeds moderately. Follow with a legume or cover crop.

Vitaceae

Year 4 bed

Grape

Feeds moderately. Follow with a legume or cover crop.

Convolvulaceae

Year 1 bed

Sweet Potato

Feeds moderately. Follow with a legume or cover crop.

Malvaceae

Year 2 bed

Okra

Feeds moderately. Follow with a legume or cover crop.

Alliaceae

Year 3 bed

Leek

Feeds moderately. Follow with a legume or cover crop.

Asparagaceae

Year 4 bed

Asparagus

Feeds moderately. Follow with a legume or cover crop.

Valerianaceae

Year 1 bed

Mâche (Corn Salad)

Feeds moderately. Follow with a legume or cover crop.

Montiaceae

Year 2 bed

Claytonia (Miner's Lettuce)

Feeds moderately. Follow with a legume or cover crop.

Basellaceae

Year 3 bed

Malabar Spinach

Feeds moderately. Follow with a legume or cover crop.

Aizoaceae

Year 4 bed

New Zealand Spinach

Feeds moderately. Follow with a legume or cover crop.

Linaceae

Year 1 bed

Flax (Seed)

Feeds moderately. Follow with a legume or cover crop.

Boraginaceae

Year 2 bed

Borage

Feeds moderately. Follow with a legume or cover crop.

Annonaceae

Year 3 bed

Pawpaw

Feeds moderately. Follow with a legume or cover crop.

Ebenaceae

Year 4 bed

American Persimmon

Feeds moderately. Follow with a legume or cover crop.

Caprifoliaceae

Year 1 bed

Honeyberry (Haskap)

Feeds moderately. Follow with a legume or cover crop.

Elaeagnaceae

Year 2 bed

Seaberry (Sea Buckthorn)

Feeds moderately. Follow with a legume or cover crop.

Lythraceae

Year 3 bed

Pomegranate

Feeds moderately. Follow with a legume or cover crop.

Rhamnaceae

Year 4 bed

Jujube (Chinese Date)

Feeds moderately. Follow with a legume or cover crop.

Actinidiaceae

Year 1 bed

Hardy Kiwi

Feeds moderately. Follow with a legume or cover crop.

Betulaceae

Year 2 bed

Hazelnut (Filbert)

Feeds moderately. Follow with a legume or cover crop.

Fagaceae

Year 3 bed

Chestnut

Feeds moderately. Follow with a legume or cover crop.

Oleaceae

Year 4 bed

Olive

Feeds moderately. Follow with a legume or cover crop.

Musaceae

Year 1 bed

Banana

Feeds moderately. Follow with a legume or cover crop.

Caricaceae

Year 2 bed

Papaya

Feeds moderately. Follow with a legume or cover crop.

Passifloraceae

Year 3 bed

Passionfruit

Feeds moderately. Follow with a legume or cover crop.

Myrtaceae

Year 4 bed

Pineapple Guava

Feeds moderately. Follow with a legume or cover crop.

Soil pH targets

Most nutrients are most available between 6.0 and 7.0. Sulfur lowers pH; lime raises it: retest 3 months after amending.

Crop group	Target pH	Notes
Blueberry, cranberry	4.5–5.5	True acid lovers. Amend with elemental sulfur and pine fines.
Potato	5.0–6.0	Low pH suppresses scab. Do not lime potato beds.
Tomato, pepper, eggplant	6.0–6.8	Calcium uptake fails below 5.8: blossom end rot follows.
Beans, peas, squash, corn	6.0–7.0	Broad tolerance; nodulation drops sharply under 5.5.
Brassicas (kale, broccoli, cabbage)	6.5–7.5	Higher pH suppresses clubroot.
Most herbs (rosemary, thyme, sage)	6.0–7.5	Mediterranean herbs prefer lean, sharply drained soil.

Compost carbon-to-nitrogen ratios

Aim for an overall pile near 30:1. Roughly 2–3 parts browns by volume to 1 part greens.

Material	C:N ratio	Type
Dry leaves	60:1	Brown
Straw	80:1	Brown
Cardboard / paper	350:1	Brown
Wood chips / sawdust	400:1	Brown: slow, use sparingly
Vegetable scraps	20:1	Green
Coffee grounds	20:1	Green
Fresh grass clippings	15:1	Green
Manure (cow, horse)	20:1	Green: hot compost before use
Chicken manure	7:1	Green: very hot, age 6 months

Watering & irrigation guide

One inch of water per week ≈ 0.62 gallons per square foot. Water deeply and less often to drive roots down.

Situation	Water needed	How to deliver
Established in-ground bed	1 in/week	One deep soak; two in heat above 90°F.
Newly seeded row	Keep top ½ in damp	Light mist 1–2× daily until germination.
Fresh transplants (first 2 weeks)	Every 1–2 days	Water at the base, not the leaves.
Container, under 5 gal	Daily, often twice in heat	Water until it runs out the drain holes.
Container, 10–20 gal	Every 1–2 days	Mulch the surface to cut evaporation by ~25%.
Drip line, 1/2 in @ 0.5 gph	~45 min per inch	Emitters 12 in apart along the row.
Mulched bed	~30% less	2–3 in of straw or leaf mulch, kept off stems.

Succession sowing intervals

Sow the next round on plant stage, not just the calendar. When the previous sowing shows its first true leaves, the timing is usually right.

Crop	Sow every	Sow the next round when	Stop sowing
Lettuce & salad mix	10–14 days	Previous sowing has 2–4 true leaves	4 weeks before first frost
Radish	10 days	Previous row is up and showing true leaves	3 weeks before first frost
Bush beans	2–3 weeks	Previous sowing has unfolded its first true leaves	10 weeks before first frost
Carrots	3 weeks	Previous row is about 2 in tall	10 weeks before first frost
Cilantro & dill	3 weeks	Previous sowing shows first true leaves	Continue into fall: bolts in heat
Spinach & arugula	2 weeks	Previous row is up and has true leaves	Resume in fall; skip midsummer
Basil	4 weeks	Previous sowing has 4 true leaves	8 weeks before first frost

Put these charts to work

Charts tell you what's possible. The planner and schedule turn them into dated tasks for your actual beds.

Open the toolkit Crop profiles